Ortles, the “King of Tyrol”
Ortles (or Ortler in German) is the highest mountain in the Southern Rhaetian Alps and in the entire historic Tyrol region, rising to an impressive 3,902 metres. Majestic and imposing, it is often called the “King Ortles” by hikers and climbers who admire its grandeur. The peak belongs to the Ortles-Cevedale mountain group and lies within the stunning Stelvio National Park, one of the largest protected areas in Europe.
The Name and the First Ascents
The name “Ortles” first appeared in 1770 with the phrase “Ortles spiz der höchste im ganzen Tyrol” — meaning “the highest peak in all of Tyrol.”
The first recorded ascent took place on 26 September 1804, when Joseph Pichler, a chamois hunter from Val Passiria (nicknamed Pseiser Josele), reached the summit with two companions. The expedition, commissioned by Archduke John of Austria, aimed to prove that reaching the summit was indeed possible. Earlier, botanist Johannes Nepomuk Gebhard had attempted the climb several times without success.
Pichler succeeded by climbing a challenging section known as the Red Couloir, and after a long day of snow and rock, he returned exhausted but victorious. The following year, in 1805, Gebhard also reached the summit, raising a linen flag. To convince the sceptical valley dwellers, he ordered a bonfire to be lit on the peak using a tar-soaked pole — a signal that was finally visible to everyone below.
250 km of Trails and 14 Peaks to Explore
Ortles is surrounded by 14 smaller peaks, making it one of the most spectacular destinations for lovers of high-altitude hiking, mountaineering, and challenging excursions. The area is crisscrossed by about 250 km of marked trails winding among glaciers, alpine lakes, panoramic huts, and old military routes.
This mountain is also a favourite destination for summer skiing (in Solda and on the Stelvio Pass) and for those interested in glaciological and nature trails within the Stelvio National Park.
